![]() ![]() The list below contains all the plugins that a great image editor needs – and this time I mean you, not the software program! If you’re going to be serious about using GIMP as your main image editor, it’s important that you get comfortable dealing with the GIMP plugins system. I’ve written lots of these intro blurbs, but they all boil down to this: I’ve spent half my life working with digital images in one way or another, so I can save you time and effort by sharing my experiences with you. My name is Thomas, and I’m the writer and image editor on the TGT(The GIMP Tutorials) team. Having used almost all of the different image editing programs available on the market today, I often found myself reaching for a tool or filter in GIMP only to realize that there isn’t a comparable option available in a fresh GIMP install. Plugins are small pieces of software that work from within GIMP to add new tools, editing options, and even more capabilities like RAW image processing for high-end digital SLR cameras. The main reasons I ended up paying for a PTGui license was for the better masking feature and viewpoint correction.One of the most useful features of GIMP is its support for a wide range of plugins. It's a little cumbersome, but should work. The Masks tab is where you can draw polygons around areas to exclude or include in the final panorama. In this case, overlap determines whether or not you have enough "clean plate" to use blend masks to erase the ghost/clone. Ghosts and Clones are basically because something moved between the member images. Checking how your control points score, or looking at the preview can help you see if there's been an improvement. The "View" corrections offered here are for field-of-view (i.e., if you took member images with different lenses).Ĭlicking on the calculate button for the Geometric settings will rerun the optimizer. However, Hugin does not yet have a feature similar to PTGui's "Viewpoint Correction", which can adjust for a shifted camera position. The Geometric settings are the ones that control how the images are warped and positioned relative to each other with the control points. In the Photos tab, at the bottom of the window, are the two Optimise options. In the Control Point window, you can sort by that distance, and delete any with very high ('out of whack') scores, and then rerun positioning optimization to see if everything shifts into place better. If you are certain that it's not parallax error, but that Nona/autopano-sift-c has merely mismatched control points, there is one simple thing that you can do, which is to delete the worst control point pairs.Įach pair of control points, when the final warping is done, is "scored" with a measurement of how far apart the two points are in the resulting image. But this can be incredibly tedious, time-consuming, and futile in the end. You may want to get Hugin to create layered output so you can use mask and layers in Photoshop or the Gimp to try and adjust where the breaks meet or to hide them if there's enough overlap from better-fitting member images. ![]() What are the best techniques to take 360° panoramas?."Finding the No-Parallax Point" by John Houghton.If it's a zoom lens, make sure you know where the NPPs are for each given focal length. Make sure you know where the NPP is in the specific lens you're using. A special two-arm panorama head is probably the simplest way to go. A plumbline is a good, low-cost way to begin. Make sure you have your gear calibrated correctly, or at least that you are using some form of mechanical aid to rotate correctly around the no-parallax point (NPP). If you do not rotate the camera/lens combination precisely around the no-parallax point (NPP), particularly in smaller enclosed spaces, then you are creating issues that no stitcher can fix with any amount of warping, because objects will have moved, relative to each other, between shots. There may be no way to fix these in Hugin itself, as it's very probable you have a parallax issue when shooting. ![]()
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